Textile fabric appearance quality identification method

Among all kinds of textile fabrics, some fabrics are difficult to distinguish between the front and the back. In the process of sewing the garment, it is easy to make mistakes, causing errors, such as uneven color and uneven pattern, and serious color difference. The pattern is confusing and the fabric is reversed, which affects the appearance of the garment. In addition to the sensory methods of eye-viewing and hand-touching, the identification of fabrics also has the characteristics of the fabric structure, the color of the fabric, the special effects of the special finishing, and the identification of the trademarks and seals of the fabric.

1. Identification based on the structure of the fabric

(l) Plain weave: The front and back of the plain weave fabric are difficult to identify, so there is no difference between the front and the back (except the printed cloth). Generally, the front of the plain fabric is relatively smooth and smooth, and the color is even and clear.

(2) Twill fabric: The twill weave is divided into one-sided twill and double-sided twill. The one-sided twill pattern is clearly visible on the front side and the reverse side is blurred. In addition, in terms of the inclination of the grain, the front grain of the single-yarn fabric is inclined from the upper left to the lower right, and the texture of the half-line fabric or the full-line fabric is inclined from the lower left to the upper right. The front and back lines of the double-sided twill are basically the same, but oblique To the contrary.

(3) Satin fabric: Since the front warp or weft of the satin fabric floats out more, the fabric is flat and shiny. The opposite side of the grain is like a plain pattern, and it is like a twill, and the gloss is dim.

In addition, there are many floating points on the front surface of the twill and warp satin, and there are many weft and floating points on the front side of the weft and the weft.

2. According to fabric pattern and color recognition

The patterns and patterns on the front of various fabrics are clear and clean. The contours and outlines of the patterns are relatively clear and distinct, the layers are distinct, the colors are vivid and full; the opposite side is lighter than the front, the lines are fuzzy, the patterns are lacking in layers, and the gloss is also More dim.

3. According to fabric organization changes and pattern recognition

The texture patterns of jacquard, tigg, and trawl fabrics vary widely. Generally, there are few floating yarns on the front side of the weave, the stripes, the lattice and the proposed pattern are more obvious than the reverse side, and the lines are clear, the outline is prominent, the color is even and the light is bright and soft; on the reverse side, the pattern is fuzzy, the outline is unclear, and the color is dull. . There are also individual patterns on the reverse side of the jacquard fabric, which are unique and unique, and the color is harmonious and quiet. Therefore, the reverse side is used as a material in the garment making. As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, the float length is uniform, and the fastness of use is not affected, the reverse side can also be used as a front side.

4. According to fabric edge recognition

Generally, the front side of the fabric is flatter and stiffer than the reverse side, and the opposite side of the fabric is curled inward. The fabric woven by the shuttleless looms has a flat cloth on the front side and the back edge of the weft yarn is easy to find. Some high-grade fabrics. Such as woolen cloth. On the fabric edge of the fabric weaving with words or other text. The front of the word or text is clearer, more obvious, smooth and clean; and the reverse of the word or text is relatively vague, the font is reversed.

5. Identification based on the appearance effect of the fabric after special finishing

(1) Fleece fabric: The front side of the fabric is densely piled with a plush. The reverse side is a tissue without fluff. The ground organization is obviously like plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy and so on. Some fabrics are densely fluffy, and the texture of the ground tissue is hard to see.

(2) Burnt-out fabric: The pattern of chemically processed rotten pattern has clear front, clear outline, and bright color. If it is suede, the suede is plump and flush, such as rotten silk and georgette.

6. Identification based on trademarks and seals

When the whole fabric is inspected before leaving the factory, the product label paper or manual is usually pasted, and the side of the paste is the reverse side of the fabric; the end of each piece is covered with the date of manufacture and the seal of inspection is the opposite side of the fabric. Unlike domestic products, the trademarks and seals of export products are on the front.

Some apparel fabrics, such as corduroy, velveteen, velvet, plush and various woolen fabrics, have a smooth finish. There are significant differences between the front and back of these fabrics. Usually touched by hand. The hair is propped up by the hair. The hair is obedient to the hair. In addition, there are significant differences in color. Using such fabrics to make garments, it is obvious that the front and back sides of the suede are obvious. For example, the suede of the corduroy is the front side, and the fabric fluff is correctly judged, and the hair is cut by the inverted hair or the smooth hair. In addition, when cutting with a fabric with inverted hair, a single-piece cutting method is required, so that the main and auxiliary pieces are inverted, otherwise the effect of the garment will be inconsistent. Some fabrics have a flash effect, and you must also pay attention to the reverse, otherwise the flash color will be inconsistent, affecting its effect. Some asymmetric lattice fabrics should also pay attention to the backwardness. The treatment method is the same as that of the inverted wool and corduroy.

Whether or not there are flaws is an important criterion for testing the quality of fabrics. The main reasons for the defects are as follows:

1. The quality of the fiber is poor and the defect is caused.

2. defects caused by weaving, called weaving;

3. The defects produced in the process of printing, dyeing, finishing, etc.

Severe defects should be cut off, and there are lighter defects in the woolen fabrics and silk fabrics. A small string should be marked on the edge of the outer weft, which is commonly known as the "small dragonfly". On other textiles, such as rayon and polyester cotton, there is no “small sputum”, and the grade of the fabric is assessed according to the specific situation (severity of the sputum).

A slight defect will directly affect the appearance. Serious defects will damage the local strength and wear resistance. Therefore, the defects on the fabric should be avoided when cutting. If you can't avoid it, you can arrange the defects in the parts where the clothes are not often worn, so as not to affect the appearance and fastness of the clothes.

1. The original yarn is smashed.

The surface of the fabric is defective due to the yarn defect.

2. The original color cloth is a little bit.

3. Yarn weaving cloth.

4. Printing and dyeing cloth.

In the weaving and finishing process of various types of yarn-dyed fabrics, due to the influence of mechanical tension, etc., the weft yarns are not normalized on the fabric web, which are collectively referred to as "weft". The latitude is slanted, the flower is inclined, the weft is oblique, etc., and the lattice slant is the most common, especially in all kinds of plaid flannel. The weft of the yarn-dyed fabric has the following three forms:

1. One side latitude: The surface of the fabric is in the shape of a slope with one end high and one end low.

2. Center bow-shaped latitude: The plane in which the fabric is represented by an arc-shaped recess in the middle.

3. Side bow-shaped weft: A circular arc-shaped recess on the side (left or right) of the fabric.

Regardless of the form of the weft, if it is not corrected, it will damage the appearance quality and internal quality of the garment. For example, a serious weft on the plaid fabric or the horizontal strip will form the left and right or front and back of the garment piece, and the strips and the grid cannot be aligned, which seriously affects the appearance quality of the garment. If the latitude is not corrected, the weft yarn of the garment piece will be unreasonable, and the garment will be distorted and unevenly dressed, resulting in serious internal quality problems of the finished garment.

There are two ways to correct the slant:
1. Manual correction: After the raw material is sprayed with water, the two sides are pulled in the oblique direction. Although effective, this method is labor intensive and slow.
2. Machine correction: Most of the weft straightening machines are designed and manufactured by the garment factory. The straightening machine consists of five parts: bracket, transmission, steaming device, adjusting the weft device and ironing drum. Its characteristics are labor-saving, quick work efficiency. Some fabrics with serious latitudes have to be corrected several times to be effective.

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